Orphan Kitten Sweater-Take 3

***Update-We have changed up the measurements in the images at the bottom to account for what is more consistent with the different yarns and tensions we are all using.  Because we all crochet with these different yarns and tensions, we have decided to aim more for the right dimensions, rather than the number of rows and stitches.  This is easier said than done for those of you who are not comfortable with crochet, we know that.  If you are a beginner, by all means, get used to the pattern before you try to alter it.***

I’m pretty dang proud of how many kitten lives have been touched by this “little” project.  Thank you to everyone who has helped in one way or another, especially our fearless leader, Stephanie, and the sweater making machine, Barbara.  We are hoping this is the last iteration of the pattern.  Fingers crossed!  That being said, however, if you have suggestions, please let me know.

Hopefully this blog isn’t too busy, but I’m trying out housing all of the sizes on one page.  One day, I’ll figure out how to get it to jump to the size below without you having to scroll.  I'm also hoping to make a how-to video.  Stay tuned.

In case there was anything in the original blog you want to reference, here is the link.

You can find us on facebook, and the official site can be found here.  There you can find information on how to volunteer to make these sweaters, how to donate money if you so wish, and about the project itself.  Teamwork!

Materials:  G/4.5mm crochet hook, scissors, yarn needle if desired, SEW-ON Velcro (Make sure BOTH sides are sew-on.  I learned the hard way.), thread, sewing machine if desired, parchment paper if desired.

Yarn:  The original pattern called for 100% cotton yarn, but we have been experimenting with acrylic recently.  Basically whatever worsted weight yarn you prefer.  My favorite is Caron Simply Soft.  With coupons, I can usually get a skein for under $3.  I would suggest that you avoid any of the super saver-type yarns, as they aren’t very soft.  Think about what you would want a human baby wrapped up in.  I found that the Lion Brand 24/7 cotton and Caron Cotton Cakes work well for the size 2 sweaters.  That size isn’t used so much to keep babies warm, but more for protecting their stitches post-surgery.  It allows the wound to breathe, but keeps the poor little babies from needing to wear the “cone of shame.”

Guide to sizes:

The Millie:  approximately 3-10 oz.

The Mazie:  approximately 10-18 oz.

The Daniel:  approximately 18-26 oz.

The Sunny:  approximately 26-32 oz.

Stitch Guide:  CH-chain, HDC-half double crochet, SC-single crochet, SL ST-slip stitch

CH 23

Row 1:

SC into the 2^rd stitch from the end

SC 1 more
SL ST into the next 2 stitches, SC into the next 2 stitches.  Continue across for a total of 22 stitches.
(This row starts and ends with 2 SCs.)

Row 2:

CH 1 and turn
SC 2
CH 2
Skip 2 stitches and repeat across
(This row also starts and ends with 2 SCs.)

Row 3: 
CH 2 and turn
HDC 2
HDC into the back loops of the 2 chains
Repeat across

Row 4:

CH1 and turn

SC 22

Row 5:
CH 2 and turn

HDC into first 4 stitches

CH 4

Skip 4 stitches and HDC 4 into the next 4 stitches

CH 4

Skip 4 stitches and HDC 6 into the remaining 6 stitches

Row 6:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

HDC into the back loops of the 4 chains

HDC 4

HDC into the back loops of the 4 chains

HDC 4

Row 7-9:

CH2 and turn

HDC 22

Row 10:

CH 1 and turn

SL ST 10

CH 2

HDC 6

Row 11:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

Row 12:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 1

CH 3

Skip 3 and stitch into the 4^th stitch

HDC into the final stitch

Row 13:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 2

HDC into the back loop of the 3 chains

HDC 2

Row 14:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

Row 15:
CH 2 and turn
HDC 6 together*

CH 1, cut the yarn, pull through, and weave in ends.

*To crochet stitches together, you don’t pull through the last loop.  You’ll chain 2, turn, yarn over, pull through, and then pull through 2.  You’ll have 2 stitches on your hook.  You’ll do that all of the way across, and you’ll end up with 7 stitches on your hook.  Then you’ll yarn over, and pull through all 7 stitches.

CH 28

Row 1:

HDC into the 3^rd stitch from the end

HDC 1 more
SL ST 2, HDC 2 across for a total of 26 stitches
(This row starts and ends with 2 HDCs.)

Row 2:

CH 2 and turn
HDC 2
CH 2
Skip 2 stitches and repeat across
(This row also starts and ends with 2 HDCs.)

Row 3: 
CH 2 and turn
HDC 2
HDC into the back loops of the 2 chains
Repeat across

Row 4-5:

CH2 and turn

HDC 26

Row 6:
CH 2 and turn

HDC 5

CH 5

Skip 5 stitches and HDC 5 into the next stitches

CH 5

Skip 5 stitches and HDC 6 into the remaining 6 stitches

Row 7:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

HDC into the back loops of the 5 chains

HDC 5

HDC into the back loops of the 5 chains

HDC 5

Row 8-12:

CH2 and turn

HDC 26

Row 13:

CH 1 and turn

SL ST 11

CH 2

HDC 6

Row 14:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

Row 15:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 1

CH 3

Skip 3 and stitch into the 4^th stitch

HDC into the final 2 stitches

Row 16:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 2

HDC into the back loop of the 3 chains

HDC 1

Row 17-19:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 6

Row 20:

CH 2 and turn
HDC 6 together*

CH 1, cut the yarn, pull through, and weave in ends.

*To crochet stitches together, you don’t pull through the last loop.  You’ll chain 2, turn, yarn over, pull through, and then pull through 2.  You’ll have 2 stitches on your hook.  You’ll do that all of the way across, and you’ll end up with 7 stitches on your hook.  Then you’ll yarn over, and pull through all 7 stitches.

Pattern:

CH 32

Row 1:

HDC into the 3^rd stitch from the end

HDC 1 more

SL ST 2, HDC 2 across for a total of 30 stitches

(This row starts and ends with 2 HDCs.)

Row 2:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 2

CH 2

Skip 2 stitches and repeat across

(This row also starts and ends with 2 HDCs.)

Row 3:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 2

HDC into the back loops of the 2 chains

Repeat across

Row 4-6:

CH2 and turn

HDC 30

Row 7:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 7

CH 6

Skip 6 stitches and HDC 6 into the next stitches

CH 6

Skip 6 stitches and HDC 5 into the remaining 5 stitches

Row 8:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 5

HDC into the back loops of the 6 chains

HDC 6

HDC into the back loops of the 6 chains

HDC 7

Row 9-17:

CH2 and turn

HDC 30

Row 18:

CH 1 and turn

SL ST 11

CH 2

HDC 8

Row 19 & 20:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 8

Row 21:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 2

CH 3

Skip 3 and stitch into the 4^th stitch

HDC into the final 3 stitches

Row 22:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 3

HDC into the back loop of the 3 chains

HDC 2

Row 23-25:

CH 2 and turn

HDC 8

Row 26:

CH 2 and turn
HDC 8 together*

CH 1, cut the yarn, pull through, and weave in ends.

To make The Sunny, use the same pattern as The Daniel, but use a 6mm hook.  Most people don't want the flap in this size, as it is usually for post-surgery babies, and it isn't necessary.  If this is your preference, just end after row 17.

Add Velcro.  Tip:  I've been using thread that matches the yarn.  That way you don't really see it from the outside.  It's been working well.

I actually stopped using the parchment paper and doing the X's on the ends.  I found that doing a backstitch at the beginning and end made it sturdy enough.  It also goes WAY faster.  If you have an issue with the yarn catching in your machine, use parchment paper underneath your piece.

Helpful images:

Row 1:

 Row 2:

To add the arm holes, you'll do your chain stitches, yarn over, and stitch into whatever stitch it calls for in the pattern.

When you chain together, you'll pull through the two loops that are circled here:

The stitches on your hook before you yarn over and pull through all of the loops.

Measurements:  Please keep in mind that these are estimates.  Your sweaters may vary, due to tension or yearn differences.

The Millie:

The Mazie:

The Daniel:

The Sunny:

Velcro:

In this picture, the scratchy velcro is the larger piece on the left, and the small piece on the right is the soft side.

In this picture, the larger section is the soft side, and the small piece on the flap is the scratchy side.  The two smaller models have one row of the soft velcro, and the two larger models have two rows.